Uvita, Costa Rica
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Uvita was a legend by the time I finally visited myself. From the moment I had touched down in Costa Rica, at least one person in every town I visited would mention they had some of the best moments of their trip there. So, after wrapping up my surf school in Jacó, I boarded a local bus and traveled a few hours south to Uvita, where I, too, had some trip-making moments. Most of mine were around the breakfast table with fellow guests but also in the water with surf instructors. What I realized is that Uvita’s charm isn’t so much about its attractions, though the whale tail-shaped beach is pretty cool, it’s about the people it seems to attract and the simple pleasure of being so close to nature.
First Things First: How To Get To Uvita
If you plan to get to Uvita from further up the coast (like I did), places like Manuel Antonio, Quepos, or Jacó, here’s how to do it:
By Public Transport
From San Jose: You’ll take the Tracopa bus direct to Uvita (terminal location). Buses leave almost hourly starting at 5:30am until about 2pm. You can book your ticket at the station or via the app Passer (not affiliated)
From Jaco: You have two options…
Option 1: Flag down the direct bus (the bright pink Tracopa bus) on the main highway (exact location) and hope they have room - latest schedule here.
Option 2: You can break up the journey with a transfer in Quepos and an assured seat (this is how I did it). From the public bus stop on Pastor Diaz in Jaco (beach side of the road), wait for the bus that says Quepos. They depart almost hourly from 6am to 7pm (2000CRC, pay onboard). In Quepos, you’ll be dropped at a bus terminal where you can then purchase a ticket for Uvita with Transportes Blanco y Hernandez (~2 hours). At the time of writing this (early 2023), the departure schedule is 6am, 9:30am, 11am, 2:30pm, and 5:30pm daily.
From Montezuma or Santa Teresa: First, take the bus to Cobano. Then from Cobano, catch the bus to Paquera where the public ferry to Puntarenas departs. Alternatively, you can book a faster ferry right from Montezuma or Santa Teresa with one of the private ferry companies like Zuma Tours (see pricing and availability on Bookaway or 12Go). In early 2023, the public ferry at Paquera departed at 6am, 10am, 12:30pm, 3pm and 5pm (please verify). You can book your ticket in advance via QuickPayCR (not affiliated). Once in Puntarenas, you can try to flag down the direct bus coming from San Jose to Uvita (bright pink Tracopa bus) on the main highway. Otherwise, you’ll need get a bus first to Quepos and then transfer to a bus headed for Uvita. It’s a bit complicated, so I recommend going private for this journey, even just in booking the ferry with a private company as they can ensure you get on the right bus from Puntarenas.
By Shuttle or Private Transfer
If time (and your sanity) is of the essence, I highly recommend checking out the routes on Bookaway or 12Go, two reliable sites that aggregate vetted local transportation operators and that offer the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during your trip. I wasted far too much time waiting for buses in both Jacó and at the transfer point in Quepos when trying to get to Uvita by public transportation. Prices for a shuttle start at $50USD for a direct shuttle and the journey takes about 2.5 hours.
Explore Bookaway’s routes to/from Uvita and beyond
Explore 12Go’s routes to/from Uvita and beyond
Restaurants & Cafes I Loved
Whale Tail Brewery & Gastropub
Attached to Whale Tail Hotel, where I stayed, this craft brewery has excellent craft beer on tacp and a menu of typical pub fare, but elevated.
Bar Restaurant Los Laureles
I didn’t get to try this spot, but I was recommended it by a few at my hotel who had. They said everything from the food to the ambiance was top-notch.
Fun Things to Do
Attend a Surf Camp or Sign up for Surf Lessons
Like Jacó, Uvita is a Costa Rican surf hub, full of surf camps and instructors. I did a lesson with Leandro of Uvita Surf + Tour and another with Adrianna of Bodhi Surf + Yoga (a surf camp that also offers private and group surf lessons upon request). I’d recommend either one. I learned new skills from each instructor and realized that perhaps there’s a benefit to learning from more than one instructor as I continue with my surf journey this year.
Visit Neighboring Dominical
Though I didn’t get a chance to do this (too focused on the surfing in Uvita), many at my hostel did and loved it. Dominical is a 15- to 20-mintue drive from Uvita and offers a slightly different glimpse of life in the Osa Peninsula. While Uvita is extremely spread out, Dominical is compact and easy to explore, with beautiful beaches for surf and swim too. It’s a spot my bus to Uvita passed through, and that I made a mental note to visit should I ever return to Costa Rica. It had Sámara vibes, and if you read my reaction to that beach town, you know that’s a good thing.
Where I Stayed
Whale Tail Hotel
Tucked within its own little pocket of Uvita jungle, this hotel/hostel has privates and dorms, a swimming pool, a kitchen for guest use, breakfast is included (gallo pinto or pancakes), and there’s an attached brewery. Though they didn’t have a yoga instructor while I was there, they typically also offer yoga classes and surf lessons are available upon request.
Travel Resources
Accommodations: When I’m not booking directly with the accommodation (which is sometimes cheaper), I often use Booking.com, Trivago, and Hostelworld.com. Agoda is also a great tool when searching for longer stay options at discounted rates that include hotels and private homes.
Tours: While I personally prefer do-it-yourself travel most of the time, sometimes it’s just better with a guide. In those cases, I typically use Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, and Airbnb Experiences. For self-guided audio tours, I recommend WeGoTrip.
Flights: My favorite flight aggregator tool is WayAway and my favorite tool for finding out about the best flight deals is FareDrop, while Hopper’s great for keeping track of when to book at the best price.
Shuttle Services: My go-to’s are Bookaway and 12Go. Both sites aggregate vetted local transport options in destinations all over the world with the added benefit of 24-hour live support should anything come up during the journey.
Rental Cars: While I more often take public transport when I travel, there have been destinations that are better explored by renting a car (like Costa Rica and Europe/UK for example). In these instances, I recommend starting your car rental search on Discover Cars. They compare car rental deals across more than 500 suppliers, including Hertz, Enterprise, Avis, and more.
Travel Insurance: If you’re a full-time nomad like me, I recommend SafetyWing. Look into their Nomad Travel Medical Insurance and Nomad Health Insurance (a full-fledged health insurance that covers your emergency and non-emergency medical needs worldwide, including in your country of residence). If you’re not a full-time traveler, I’d recommend Squaremouth. It aggregates your insurance options across more than 22 providers and offers what I’ve found to be the best rates.
Travel Debit & Credit Cards: If you travel often and like perks like airport lounge access and annual travel credit, I recommend the Capital One Venture X credit card that includes Priority Pass, a $300 annual travel credit, and covers your Global Entry or TSA Precheck fee. For a fee-free ATM card that reimburses you at the end of every month for any incurred ATM fees, I recommend opening a Schwab Bank Investor Checking Account.
VPN: I recommend Surfshark. It’s one of the best and most budget-friendly VPN services out there.
What to Read Next
Costa Rica Foot Tracks
Uvita is the stuff of legends, or so it was for me. This beach town was the one spot consistently recommended by what felt like every traveler I met. Here’s where I ate, drank, slept, and explored in this infamous spot.