Cartagena, Colombia
Despite having ultimately spent a grand total of 3 years in Cartagena, Colombia, it originally wasn't love at first sight for me. My first impression was cruise port town not meant to be experienced for more than a day. But, after having gotten lost in its labyrinthine streets, been serenaded in its plazas, made a little rounder by its fritos, and seduced by its sunsets on crumbling fortress walls or bobbing sailboats in the bay, I'm a big fan of this city by the Caribbean Sea. Look past its made-for-tourism sheen and you come to discover a city overflowing with culture, history, tradition, passion, and a warmth that beams from far more than the unrelenting sun. What follows are a few of the local gems and experiences that I found myself seeking out again and again while living in Cartagena. May my favorites be just a jumping off point for you as you follow your own trail through these storybook streets.
// Things To Do //
// Must-Visit Local Gems //
For drinks…
Slightly overpriced but worth it for the setting right on the wall and DJ-enhanced ambiance at sunset. If you plan to go, I do recommend reserving a table in advance.
La Caponera (Getsemani)
This spot is beloved by locals and visitors alike. It’s casual and always a safe bet for a night of drinks or dancing to the steady salsa blaring from behind the bar.
Townhouse Rooftop (San Diego)
Situated in the heart of San Diego, this rooftop bar is great for kick-off-the-night cocktails with a hip and homey view overlooking the city and sea.
Alquimico (El Centro)
The bartenders at this three-story bar whip up on some of the most imaginative cocktails I have ever imbibed and the rooftop is one of my favorite spots after dark.
For caffeine…
Epoca (El Centro)
This gorgeous cafe has perfectly poured coffee and a full menu of mouthwatering brunch fare served all day long.
You cannot beat the ambiance of this bookshop cafe. Sip delicious brews amidst the stacks and shelves of books on books.
For a quality cup of joe in the center of town, this is the spot to go. They know their coffee and have put together the perfect all-meal menu should you need a break from the local fare.
Newer to the Cartagena scene, this special spot has a vibe all its own and a story dating back to the 30’s that you’ll find laced throughout the setting, menu, and experience.
This coffee laboratory on a shaded street in Getsemani is an experience in and of itself. Go for something your tastebuds have never tried and re-discover what’s possible when it comes to coffee.
For a local bite…
La Mulata (San Diego)
Many a local will recommend this spot to you for a classic menu lunch featuring all of the must-try local fare.
Espiritu Santo (Getsemani)
Come the lunch hour, this spot will be hopping. It’s worth the wait for a table if you’re truly after a local lunchtime experience.
La Cocina de Pepina (Getsemani)
This higher-end spot makes some of the best Caribbean coastal cuisine, including my favorite mote de queso.
I discovered this spot on one of my first visits to the city and it became both my go-to mid-afternoon snack spot, as well as the perfect place for a light and local breakfast.
Hidden on a side street in El Centro, this standing room only hole-in-the-wall dishes up a unique and delicious variety of fritos and grab-and-go bites.
For the food and ambiance…
Celele (Getsmani)
Celele’s concept is contemporary cuisine based on the gastronomic culture and biodiversity of the Colombian Caribbean. The result is like nothing you’ve ever tasted before
Cande (San Diego)
Cande’s menu is 100% authentic Cartagena cuisine in an ambiance that ‘s warm, inviting, and full of theatrics. Expect live music and folkloric dancers to accent your dining experience
Marzola (San Diego)
Step inside Marzola and it will feel like you’ve entered another world. From its Argentine-inspired cuisine to its distracting decor, this is always a fun place to dine for dinner.
Di Silvio Trattoria (Getsemani)
This is Italian food as it should be. Di Silvio Trattoria sits right on the fringe of the popular Plaza de la Trinidad making for a buzzing and lively environ come nightfall. My go-to on their menu is their delicious ravioli!
Situated right on the waterfront on the outskirts of Getsemani, the Santa Isabel Food Trucks feature everything from tacos and burgers to sushi and hand-crafted cocktails delivered to your water-facing lounger.
For something sweet…
La Petite Gourmande (Manga) - View on Map
This unassuming patisserie brings a slice of France to Cartagena through its menu of madeleines, milhojas, and my favorite finger de chocolate.
Ely Reposteria (Bocagrande) - View on Map
Flakey croissants and drool-inducing cakes and desserts put this cafe restaurant top of mind every time my sweet tooth beckons.
La Brioche (El Centro) - View on Map
This one of the first places I dined at in Cartagena and it’s remained my guilty pleasure for their to die for chocolate almond croissants
Gelateria Paradiso (El Centro) - View on Map
There are more than a few places to cool down with a cone in Cartagena, but this spot always did it for me. Their ice cream is super creamy and there’s more than a few local and unique flavors to choose from.
Portal de los Dulces (El Centro) - View on Map
This is the place to sample your way through all of the local sweet treats. My favorite are the cocadas with the crunchy coconut shells left in. Purchase a pre-packaged variety pack to find your way to your favorite.
// How to Get to Cartagena //
From Santa Marta and Barranquilla
Unless you're flying into Cartagena from another Colombian destination or your home country, the most common preceding destination is usually Santa Marta or Barranquilla, about a 4-hour journey by shuttle from Santa Marta and about a 1-hour 40-minute journey by shuttle from Barranquilla. Most shuttles are comfortable, clean, and come with the A/C blasting. Be prepared that there will not be a toilet on board, but a pit stop somewhere along the way is usually standard. The price for a shared shuttle from Santa Marta to Cartagena starts at $14USD and a shared shuttle from Barranquilla to Cartagena starts at $6USD.
From All Other Destinations in Colombia
Medellin, Bogota, Pereira, or wherever else you may be coming from is going to be a pretty hefty distance by land. Some journeys can take as long as a day thanks to Colombia’s mountainous landscapes and infamous city traffic. Though I don’t recommend taking a bus or shuttle to Cartagena due to the time required, it is a possibility. You can browse your bus and shuttle options to Cartagena on Bookaway or BusBud. Otherwise, I’d recommend booking a flight on one of the low-budget airlines like VivaColombia or Wingo if you’re on a tight budget. Avianca and LATAM are other great options. WayAway is my favorite flight comparison tool, so I’d recommend starting there in your flight search.
Travel Resources
Please note that some, not all, of the following recommendations may include affiliate links, meaning I do receive a small commission at no additional cost to you when you click and purchase through these links.
Accommodations: When I’m not booking directly with the accommodation (which is sometimes cheaper), I often use Booking.com, Trivago, and Hostelworld.com. Agoda is also a great tool when searching for longer stay options at discounted rates that include hotels and private homes.
Tours: While I personally prefer do-it-yourself travel most of the time, sometimes it’s just better with a guide. In those cases, I typically use Viator, GetYourGuide, EatWith, and Airbnb Experiences. For self-guided audio tours, I recommend WeGoTrip.
Flights: My favorite flight aggregator tool is WayAway and my favorite tool for finding out about the best flight deals is FareDrop.
Shuttle Services: My go-to is Bookaway. They operate in more than 90 countries and work with only the top-rated suppliers in each country.
Travel Insurance: If you’re a full-time nomad like me, I recommend SafetyWing. For medical coverage during shorter trips, I frequently use and would recommend Squaremouth. It aggregates your options across more than 22 providers and offers what I’ve found to be the best rates.
Travel Debit & Credit Cards: If you travel often and like perks like airport lounge access and annual travel credit, I recommend the Capital One Venture X credit card that includes Priority Pass, a $300 annual travel credit, and covers your Global Entry or TSA Precheck fee. For a fee-free ATM card that reimburses you at the end of every month for any incurred ATM fees, I recommend opening a Schwab Bank Investor Checking Account.
VPN: I recommend Surfshark. It’s one of the best and most budget-friendly VPN services out there.
Experience Cartagena at Home
While the prospect of visiting Cartagena may not be a possibility for you at the moment, I’ve pulled together a few at-home virtual activities that bring Colombia’s Caribbean gem to you. Dance, cook, sing, and sweat your way through each of these fun experiences and, if you feel called to do so, there’s a donate button at the bottom of each activity. All donations go directly to the tourism-dependent local small business, community, or creative that helped me put it all together. Enjoy!
For a satisfying sampling of street art and stop-you-in-your-tracks graffiti, beeline it for Getsemaní, a colorful neighborhood on the fringes of Cartagena’s walled city.